庇護堡酒莊 愛⽝莉莉⿊⽪諾紅葡萄酒
Shelter Winery Lovely Lilly Pinot Noir
此款Pinot Noir如同Lilly的活潑與精巧可愛。以最自然的方式釀酒，手摘25年葡萄藤、有機農法、去梗、天然酵母、每日四次Punch Down、不澄清不過濾、舊大橡木桶陳放12個月，極少量二氧化硫(So2)。香水般明顯的櫻桃香氣，核心是黑色莓果伴隨淡淡的花香，酸度明亮，尾韻帶有礦石風味，酒體輕柔細緻。
Shelter Winery 庇護堡酒莊
2003 年，莊主 Hans - Bert Espe 和夫人 Silke Wolf 在廢棄空軍庇護碉堡成立了庇護堡酒 Shelter Winery 共同釀酒，短時間成了享譽盛名的有機酒莊。 其 Pinot Noir 榮獲德奧權威葡萄酒雜誌 Falstaff 以及 James Suckling 雙雙給予 96 高分，這是德國 Pinot Noir 歷史最高分之一。
德國是三大 Pinot Noir 產國，而 Baden 更是德國第一 PN 產區，在 Baden 內 Kaiserstuh 區以火山土壤著稱，庇護堡酒莊就位在其北部，受黑森林區冷風影響，成為 Pinot Noir 絕佳冷涼產區。
Originally, the name of the winery, Shelter, came from the old Canadian hanger that they rented at the beginning of their journey. For a few years now they’ve been in a smart new winery that they designed and built and which combines what I think are the key philosophies of the estate: style and simplicity. The barrel room and cellar, while not dug into the ground, has the ground piled on top of it; a beautiful garden of wild flowers insulates the estate. Solar panels to the right power it (see top right picture).
The vineyard and cellar work is just as straightforward. No herbicides or pesticides are used in the vineyards; harvest is done completely by hand. In the cellar, a short cold soak is followed by a delicate press (normally the stems are removed, though this can differ from vintage to vintage) and fermentation in open-top vessels (see above). Once fermentation is complete, the juice is transferred into barrel, with the few new barrels being outnumbered by those with up to five years of age.
As an importer, I hate quoting winery websites as it feels a bit lazy. Still, one line from Hans-Bert and Silke seems apt: “We renounce pumps and filters. Our ‘pump’ is the hard work and patience is our ‘filter.'”
The hierarchy at Shelter is pretty straightforward. There is the KILLER value Pinot Noir, “Lovely Lilly,” named after their (previous) vineyard and cellar dog Lilly. Lilly sadly passed in 2014, though the energy remains at the winery with a new young pup who has taken over all jumping, chasing, panting, running and bouncing-around duties.
The “Spätburgunder” is the middle-tier, maybe Premier Cru-quality wine. Finally, the straightforwardly named “Pinot Noir” represents the top quality.
While everything in the vineyard is the same for all the Pinots, the Spätburgunder sees more of the older barrels for its élevage, thus it tends to be a bit lighter and higher-toned. It is a stunning wine and a profound value. The Pinot Noir is deeper and more structured. As such, it requires more time.
While the reds are the stars, and the focus, of the estate, one should be on the lookout for two Blanc de Noir rarities from Shelter: their still Blanc de Noir is chalky and bracing, doing its best interpretation of some as-yet-undiscovered appellation somewhere between Chablis and Chitry; the sparkling Blanc de Noir (méthode Champenois) is richer and more lavish, yet with plenty of sharp edges and mineral. Both are worth the hunt.
#庇護堡酒莊 #Shelter Winery #德國 #德國葡萄酒 #德國紅葡萄酒 #庇護堡酒莊 愛⽝莉莉⿊⽪諾紅葡萄酒 #⿊⽪諾紅葡萄酒 #⿊⽪諾 #Shelter Winery Lovely Lilly Pinot Noir